A finely powdered form of Oat Extract that has the same skin soothing, skin protecting and antioxidant benefits we have written about at Avena Sativa Kernel Extract. It is loaded with skin-goodies such as anti-inflammatory agent beta-glucan, skin nourishing lipids, and moisturizing carbohydrates. A real goodie for dry, irritated, inflamed or eczema-prone skin.

When you hear oatmeal, you probably think of breakfast, but the finely ground version of whole oat kernels, aka colloidal oatmeal, can do good things for your skin, especially if it's dry, itchy or prone to skin-rashes or eczema.

Oat is loaded with compounds good for the body, inside or outside, such as soothing agent beta-glucan (5%),  lipids (3-11%) including barrier repairing omega-3 and 6 fatty acids or phenolic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (avenanthramides). 

The soothing, antioxidant and skin-protecting abilities of oat are so well-established that it is an active natural ingredient covered by the FDA OTC Skin Protectant monograph in the US, meaning that colloidal oatmeal can be claimed as an active ingredient on the INCI list and Aveeno is a mass-market brand built around oat-containing products.  

If your skin is dry, irritated, inflamed or eczema-prone, colloidal oatmeal is something to try.

 Beta-Glucan

Beta-glucan activates and strengthens Langerhans cells to return the skin’s immune function to a healthy state. Dead and damaged skin tissue is removed and there is a rapid healing process.

Beta-glucan rejuvenates the skin’s cells by invigorating the Langerhans cells and recharging the cellular immune system. Many things in the modern world destroy or weaken these Langerhans cells. Langerhans cells fight foreign intruders and release substances, such as epidermal growth factors, that encourage skin renewal and healing. Excessive exposure to sunlight, chemicals and chlorine all damage the Langerhans cells.

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate is a soft, mild cleansing agent with amphoteric structure meaning that its head contains both a positively and a negatively charged part (surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge).  It also has great foaming abilities and is recommended for baby products and other non-irritating cleansers.

This surfactant works as a mild foaming agent, cleanser and skin/hair conditioner. As a foam booster, it increases a solution's foaming capacity by increasing the surface viscosity of the liquid which surrounds the individual bubbles in a foam. It cleans the skin/hair by enabling water to mix with oil & dirt particles, and rinse them off the surface. It's highly valued for cleansing the skin/hair without stripping it of its natural oils, and is thus incorporated into many "moisturizing" cosmetic cleaning products.

Caprylyl glycol is an alcohol derived from a fatty acid. It is a humectant which means that it pulls water into the skin and helps to hold moisture into the skin. Despite being derived from alcohol it is a hydrating ingredient. Caprylyl glycol has the added benefit of also acting as a preservative, increasing the shelf life of products. 

Caprylyl glycol, also known as 1,2-octanediol, is an alcohol derived from caprylic acid, an eight-carbon saturated fatty acid found in the milk of some mammals, as well as palm and coconut oils. It is a colorless liquid with a slightly sweet scent. Caprylic acid is classified as a medium chain triglyceride or MCT. According to Healthline caprylyl glycol  may also have antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Caprylyl glycol is usually synthetically produced, putting less strain on environmental resources such as palm oil. Apart from the benefits it provides the skin caprylyl glycol is used in many different products due to its ability to improve the spreadability of the formulation. It can also replace traditional preservatives such as parabens and it helps other preservatives to work better. 

 As an emollient, cetyl alcohol has the ability to soften and smooth flakiness on the skin, which helps to reduce rough, dry skin. Emollients are also occlusive agents, which means they provide a layer of protection that helps prevent water loss from the skin.

 GLYCERIN

Glycerin (glycerol, glycerine) is a naturally occurring alcohol compound that can be obtained from natural sources or made in a lab. It is a colorless, odorless, viscous liquid and is non-toxic. Glycerin is considered non-allergenic and is suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone skin. Glycerin dissolves well in water and alcohol but not in oil.\

Glycerin is a humectant. It’s main function is to hydrate the skin and help it hold on to moisture.

Benefits of glycerin include:

• moisturizes and hydrates skin and hair

• strengthens skins protective barrier

• makes skin softer

• helps other ingredients penetrate the skin (many ingredients dissolve well in glycerin)

In order to reap the humectant benefits of glycerin, it must be used at a rate lower than 10%. Any higher and it will have the opposite effect. The combination of other hydrating ingredients will affect the overall formulation’s hydrating capabilities. Research has shown that a combination of 5% glycerol and 5% urea was more effective regarding hydrating and protective properties than 10% glycerol or 10% urea on their own.

 A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.

Glyceryl stearate, also called glyceryl monostearate, is a white or pale yellow waxy substance derived from palm kernel, olives, or coconuts.

Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. It's readily biodegradable.

Glyceryl stearate is a naturally derived fatty acid that is used as a thickener and emollient in various cosmetics and skincare products. While the main function of glyceryl stearate is to improve the texture and sensory feel of skincare products it also helps to hydrate and protect the skin, giving your skin that dewy glow. 

Glyceryl stearate, also called glycerol monostearate, can be found naturally in the human body. When it is synthetically produced, it is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid, a natural fatty acid derived from palm kernel, vegetable, or soy oil. In fact, stearic acid is one of the most common saturated fatty acids found in nature.

You may also see ‘glyceryl stearate SE’ on product labels. Glyceryl stearate SE is a ‘Self-Emulsifying’ form of glyceryl stearate that also contains a small amount of sodium and/or potassium stearate. Self-emulsifying means that the ingredient mixes the oil and water-based ingredients together more easily. 

 Glycol stearate is a mixture of glycerin and stearic acid used as an emollient, surfactant, and emulsifier. May also be used to impart a pearlescent appearance to a formula.

Like many other long chain oil derived ingredients glycol stearate is used as a skin conditioning agent (emollient), but according to the cosmetic database it is also used as a surfactant, opacifying agent and an emulsifier, find most use in shampoos, body washes and moisturizers (US Department of Health and Human Services).

 Polysorbate 20 is an ingredient used in skincare and cosmetic formulations to improve the texture, feel, and scent of the product. It is mainly used as a surfactant, emulsifier, and fragrance ingredient. 

Polysorbate 20, also listed on an ingredient label as Tween 20, is formed by the ethoxylation of sorbitan before the addition of lauric acid. The process of making polysorbate 20 begins with sorbitol, a sugar alcohol that can naturally be found in some fruits. The dehydration of sorbitol results in sorbitan. The next step in the process of making polysorbate 20 is ethoxylation, which is a chemical reaction in which ethylene oxide is added to a substrate, in this case, sorbitan. Thus, sorbitan is reacted with 20 units of ethylene oxide, giving polysorbate 20 its name. The final step is the addition of one lauric acid group.

The highest concentration of polysorbate 20 as used in cosmetics is in spray deodorants, where it is used in a concentration of 4%.

 Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium hyaluronate has a lower molecular weight than HA and hydrolyzed HA, so it’s more easily absorbed into pores. “Sodium hyaluronate has the ability to penetrate into deeper layers of the skin, and also attracts and binds water,” the cosmetic chemist says. “This effect can plump the skin, thus reducing the look of wrinkles and making skin younger-looking.

“This form is less susceptible to oxidation, so it's more stable,” Dr. Geria adds. That stability makes sodium hyaluronate attractive to product formulators. In fact, the dermatologist notes that “almost all ‘hyaluronic acid’ serums will actually contain sodium hyaluronate as the key active ingredient.” The terms are used interchangeably, so while your faves — SkinCeuticals HA Intensifier, The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 — may say “hyaluronic acid” on the front of the bottle, the back of the bottle lists “sodium hyaluronate.”

The risks of hydrolyzed HA and sodium hyaluronate are pretty minimal, but there’s evidence to suggest you can have too much of a good thing. “It needs moisture to work, so when applied to skin in dry conditions where humidity is low, it will pull moisture from wherever it can; that’s just the nature of the beast,” The Cut reported. “If there’s no humidity to be obtained from the air, it draws moisture from the deeper layers of skin and brings it to the surface of the epidermis, whence it evaporates, leaving skin drier than it was.” The solution here is twofold: Use only one HA-containing product at a time, and seal it in with a moisturizer or oil.

As with any ingredient, “irritant or allergic reactions are always possible,” Dr. Geria says. Some beauty enthusiasts find they have sensitivities to sodium hyaluronate, but their skin thrives on hydrolyzed HA (it’s a big topic of conversation in Reddit’s Skincare Addiction community). One study theorizes this is because the low molecular size of sodium hyaluronate can cause inflammation. If you notice any inflammatory symptoms — blemishes, redness, irritation — you may want to hold off on the sodium hyaluronate serums and moisturizers to see if that helps.

Hyaluronic acid has two salt forms: sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate. As the name suggests, sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt version.

Sodium hyaluronate is part of HA. It can be extracted and used separately. This is important because it changes how the substance affects the skin. The difference comes down to molecular weight. Hyaluronic acid has a high molecular weight, which means it’s a macromolecule. The large molecules coat the skin and prevent water loss, leading to better hydration.

Sodium hyaluronate has a low molecular weight. It’s small enough to penetrate the epidermis, or top layer of the skin. In turn, it can improve hydration from the underlying skin layers.

Since sodium hyaluronate is derived from HA, it’s sometimes called “hyaluronic acid.” It may be listed as “hyaluronic acid (as sodium hyaluronate)” on skin care labels.

Sodium stearate is a stabiliser and thickener that helps harden soaps and naked deodorants, allowing a wide variety of shapes and sizes and removing the need for unnecessary packaging and synthetic preservatives. It also has opacifying properties that give the foam a creamy white appearance.

Sodium stearate, for example, is an ingredient that plays a key role in some skin cleansers. It's produced by combining stearic acid with lye; like most soaps, it consists of both fat and an alkali. Sodium stearate is a type of surfactant, which is an agent that basically makes it easier for water to get grime off of your skin. Surfactants are made up of two parts -- one part (the hydrophilic side) attracts water, while the other part (the hydrophobic side) repels it. As you wash your skin, the hydrophobic side of the surfactant clings to oil and dirt at the same time that the hydrophilic side attracts water, allowing the debris to rinse off

If it's not in a soap bar, it can also function as an emulsifier or consistency agent. 

Sodium stearate in skin care is typically used to thicken, lubricate, control viscosity, and keep ingredients from separating.[1,4,] It is often found in deodorant, toothpaste, soap, makeup, body wash, facial cleanser, shampoo, and hair coloring.[1,5]

Quercus Alba (White Oak) Bark Extract: Topical applications are thought to suppress inflammation and soothe itchy skin.

A variety of naturally occurring compounds in oak bark, especially tannins, are thought to be responsible for its claimed medicinal properties

Interestingly, the high tannin content of certain wines is typically a result of aging wine in oak barrels.

Some people apply oak bark directly to the skin in a compress or add it to bath water for pain and swelling (inflammation) of the skin, mouth, throat, genitals, and anal region; and for red itchy skin due to cold exposure (chilblains).

 Witch Hazel

There are many species of witch hazel, but Hamamelis virginiana — a type of shrub native to North America — is most commonly used in folk medicine in the US. The leaves and bark are made into teas and ointments.

Most often applied to the skin and scalp, witch hazel is widely known for its ability to ease inflammation and soothe sensitive skin.

Witch hazel contains many compounds with potent anti-inflammatory properties, including gallic acid and tannins.

It also contains antioxidants that help prevent widespread inflammation and neutralize free radicals, which are disease-causing compounds that can build up in your body

Studies show that topically-applied witch hazel can effectively reduce inflammation and help soothe your skin (4

Some research suggests that applying witch hazel topically to sensitive skin may be beneficial in the treatment of inflamed, irritated or broken skin.

In fact, witch hazel has been shown to suppress erythema — a reddening of the skin caused by injury or irritation — by up to 27%

Thanks to its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, some research suggests that witch hazel could be useful in the treatment of acne.

It acts as an astringent, causing your tissues to contract to help shrink pores, while also soothing your skin and relieving inflammation.

Witch hazel is rich in tannins, a natural plant compound with powerful antioxidant properties that can help protect your skin against damage when applied topically.